At
first glance, you may think you've arrived at one of France's
Atlantic coastal cities. Quebec City has gabled buildings
dating back to the 1600s and narrow, winding streets made
of cobblestones. You can amble through airy plazas -- past
fountains and statues -- as you make your way to Terrasse
Dufferin, a wide promenade with fantastic views of the river
below. Presiding over it all is Chateau Frontenac, a grand
hotel reminiscent of a French castle.
And there are other enticements: The city's culture revolves
around wining, dining, dancing -- and more wining and dining.
You will eat and drink well there. The capital of the province
of Quebec has a bon-vivant temperament that sets it apart
from Canada's English-speaking provinces.
Which
brings us to the language question. Almost all residents
speak French as their primary tongue, but most who work
in the tourist areas also speak some English -- and they
tend to be friendly and helpful to visitors.
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Chateau Frontenac
You can't go wrong starting out for a day in Quebec City
from this vantage point. Built on the site of Champlain's
original fort, Chateau St. Louis, this building was the
first of a distinguished chain of hotels built by the Canadian
Pacific Railway in the late 19th century. With its distinctive
towers, steeply pitched roofs and dormer windows, this modern
castle has become a symbol of Quebec City.
Notre Dame de Quebec
This ornate cathedral, one of the oldest in North America,
was built in the mid-1660s. It contains the final resting
place of most of the bishops of Quebec. A sound-and-light
show called Quebec in the Limelight is presented inside
the cathedral. The show encompasses not only the history
of the basilica, but also that of Quebec City. Narration
in both French and English is provided through earphones.
Funiculaire du Vieux Quebec
This glass-covered cable car climbs the steep rise up to
Terrasse Dufferin in front of the Chateau Frontenac from
Basse Ville. As you begin your ascent, turn around and face
the St. Lawrence River and imagine the British soldiers
who attacked the shore's steep inclines on foot in 1759.
La Citadelle
The star-shaped Citadelle was built by the British Army
in the 1830s to protect the city against attack by the U.S.
Ceremonies such as the Retreat of the Colours and the Changing
of the Guard are re-created for tourists in summer. The
Royal 22nd Regiment of the Canadian Army, known as the "Vandoos,"
still actively uses the Citadelle. The Musee du Royal 22nd
Regiment has an intriguing collection of military paperwork,
armaments, wardrobe and artifacts spanning 400 years of
military life in North America.
Ferry from Quebec City to Levis
One of the best-kept secrets in Quebec City. The ferry ride
to the town of Levis, directly across the St. Lawrence,
gives you a spectacular view of Quebec City. Photographers
searching for a perfectly lit photo of Chateau Frontenac
should get up early on a sunny day and board this ferry.
The trip there and back only takes about 45 minutes.
Musee du Fort
The six major attacks on Quebec City are re-created in a
sound-and-light show. The production features a detailed
scale-model of the city and covers about 150 years of the
conflict in this area, concluding with the U.S. invasion
of 1775.
Parc de l'Artillerie (Artillery Park)
This massive former military complex includes an old foundry
(now the information center) with a scale model of Quebec
City, the Dauphine Redoubt (a soldiers' barracks) and an
English officer's quarters. Our favorite memories of this
park, however, are of the doll economuseum (Les Dames de
Soie) on the park grounds, where you can watch artisans
make exquisite porcelain dolls. A boutique on the grounds
sells the dolls. Plan to spend half a day touring the park
and the economuseum.
Musee Nationale des Beaux-Arts du Quebec
Home to the works of Quebec's most important artists, such
as Jean-Paul Riopelle, and a large collection of art from
Quebec's past. It also hosts a steady series of interesting
conferences, films and concerts. Within the older section
of the museum, you can still see prison cells from the days
when the 19th-century building served as the Quebec City
jail.
Parc des Champs de Bataille (National Battlefields Park)
Designed by architect Frederick Todd and laid out between
1929 and 1939, this park lies on the Plains of Abraham,
where a single battle gave most of North America to the
British. Begin with the interpretation center on the main
floor of the Musee Nationale des Beaux-Arts du Quebec (on
park grounds). After the museum, view the gardens and the
sculpture of Joan of Arc astride her charger, the work of
New York artist Ann Hyatt Huntington. On the Plains of Abraham,
be sure to look for the bronze statue of Charles de Gaulle,
unveiled on the 30th anniversary of his fiery speech exhorting
Quebec independence from Canada.
Quebec Experience
This theater offers an original and entertaining series
of three-dimensional presentations that explore 450 years
of Quebec history. Presentations are in French and English,
and each lasts about 30 minutes. The theater's displays
will impress children. |
