Madrid
became Spain's capital simply through its geographical position
at the centre of Iberia. When Felipe II moved the seat of
government here in 1561 his aim was to create a symbol of
the unification and centralization of the country, and a capital
from which he could receive the fastest post and communications
from each corner of the nation. The site itself had few natural
advantages – it is 300km from the sea on a 650-metre-high
plateau, freezing in winter, burning in summer – and
it was only the determination of successive rulers to promote
a strong central capital that ensured Madrid's survival and
development.
Nonetheless, it was a success, and today Madrid is a vast,
predominantly modern city, with a population of some three
million and growing. The journey in – through a stream
of concrete-block suburbs – isn't pretty, but the streets
at the heart of the city are a pleasant surprise, with pockets
of medieval buildings and narrow, atmospheric alleys, dotted
with the oddest of shops and bars, and interspersed with eighteenth-century
Bourbon squares. By comparison with the historic cities of
Spain – Toledo, Salamanca, Sevilla, Granada –
there may be few sights of great architectural interest, but
the monarchs did acquire outstanding picture collections,
which formed the basis of the Prado museum. This has long
ensured Madrid a place on the European art tour, and the more
so since the 1990s arrival – literally down the street
– of the Reina Sofía and Thyssen-Bornemisza galleries,
state-of-the-art homes to fabulous arrays of modern Spanish
painting (including Picasso's Guernica) and European and American
masters.
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Puerta del Sol
Puerta del Sol (Sun Gate) is the most popular and commercial
area in the old town. Five hundred years ago it was just
another city gate with an image of the sun drawn on it,
hence its name. Nowadays, the square is famous for being
the center of the national road network. The plaque on the
pavement outside the old Post Office building denotes "kilometer
0". The distance between Madrid and every other part
of Spain is measured from here. Thousands of revelers gather
in the square once a year to await the chimes of the clock
that officially announces the New Year.
Palacio Real
This former royal residence houses a fantastic collection
of paintings (Velázquez, Caravaggio and Goya), sculpture,
furniture, tapestries, glassware, gold and silverware, medals,
porcelain and musical instruments. It is well worth visiting
the rooms decorated by Gasparini as well as the Royal Pharmacy,
the Library, and the Royal Armoury. King Felipe V commissioned
the Italian architect Sabatini to design the palace, and
work was carried out between 1738-1770.
Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía
This gallery of modern art features work by some of the
20th-century's most outstanding artists, including Picasso—Guernica
has its own special space—Dalí, Tàpies,
Chillida, Miró, Gris, Bacon, Le Cobursier, Lipchitz,
Schnabel, Numan, and Roberto Matta. There is a library,
research centre, bookshop, cafe, souvenir shop, and restaurant.
Real Jardín Botánico
It is a real pleasure to wander around these attractively
landscaped gardens. You will see examples of a wide variety
of plants from all five continents—30000 different
species in total. They are all labelled with their Latin
and Spanish names. Among them are medicinal herbs, sweet-smelling
plants and flowers, food-bearing plants, and a collection
of roses. There is also a greenhouse with tropical, subtropical
and desert plants. The gardens have been open since 1791.
Palacio de Gaviria
Once a mid-19th century meeting place for Madrid's high
society, this beautiful palace is now a luxurious disco,
open to the general public. There is a different special
theme every night: Tuesday nights it is salsa, Wednesdays
are for tango, and Thursday nights you can enjoy the International
Fiesta. Manuel Gaviria, a prominent banker, hired an Italian
architect to create the Renaissance-style palace in 1846.
Sadly, the neon signs and tacky shops and bars on the busy
street level detract more than a little from what must have
been a magnificent external appearance.
Monasterio de El Escorial
This historic complex is divided into three parts: the monastery
(with Lucas Jordán's frescoes), the royal mausoleum,
and the palace. The palace's magnificent rooms are decorated
with paintings by Titian, El Greco, and Claudio Coello,
as well as wonderful 18th-century furniture. The library
contains a fascinating collection of manuscripts and the
Museum of Painting and Architecture is worth a look. Felipe
II commissioned Juan Bautista de Toledo and Juan de Herrera
to build everything between 1563 and 1584 to commemorate
Spanish victory in the battle of San Quintín (1557).
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