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Lisbon Travel Guide

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 Lisbon Travel Guide

Lisbon

Lisbon's hodgepodge of time periods and cultures is a major source of its charm. A sprawling city on the banks of the Tagus River, it constantly reminds you that Portugal has been conquered several times, that it developed (and lost) its own illustrious empire and that, for much of the 20th century, it isolated itself from the rest of the world. As you walk the city's hills -- or, better, take one of the vintage trams -- you'll find restored medieval facades, wonderful art-nouveau buildings, black-and-white mosaic sidewalks (often with cars parked on them), fine museums and plenty of modern shops.

Lisbon's citizens seem to have absorbed their city's many-sided character. Witness the popularity of fado, the melancholy music that developed in Lisbon in the early 19th century. Though the performers sing about tragedy and distant glory, the audience is very much a part of modern Lisbon -- a flourishing, fashionable business and leisure center.

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A Portuguese blend of Rome and San Francisco
The physical setting alone makes Lisbon an appealing destination. The city is built on hills overlooking the Tagus River (Tejos in Portuguese) where the river meets the Atlantic Ocean. The climate is benign--like San Diego's, but less dry--and the older parts of the city are rich with murals of azulejo tiles, art nouveau buildings, sidewalks paved with decorative patterns of tiny black and white stones, public staircases leading steeply upward through ancient neighborhoods, double-decker buses, and funicular tramways where you may see a cat hop aboard and get off at the next stop.

A panoply of sights and sounds

Museums and monuments are other popular attractions. No visit is complete without a tour of the Jerónimos monastery, where ropes and other maritime themes are carved into stone. Take time to explore the Moorish Castelo de São Jorge, which looks like a fortress on the outside but is a delightful place of gardens, towers with scenic views, ponds with swans and peacocks, and other attractions within its walls.

Don't miss the Torre de Belém, and spend an hour or two at nearby museums like the Museo Nacional des Coches (coaches worthy of Cinderella), the Museo de Marinha (boats and naval exhibits), and the Museo de Arte Popular (folk arts, exhibited by region, and a "must see" warm-up for shoppers interested in handicrafts).

A launchpad for a Portuguese vacation

If you arrive during the warmer months, you can hop aboard a train to suburban coastal resorts like Estoril and Cascais for a day of swimming and sunbathing. For another change of pace, take the commuter train to nearby Sintra and its two national palaces. Ready to go farther afield? No town in Portugal is more than a two-day drive from Lisbon, although I suggest allowing at least a week for the North or South if you're touring by car. Better yet, spend up to two weeks in either part of the country and save the other half for a later trip. Portugal is a country to be savored, not rushed.

Europe's most child-friendly destination

Portugal is more welcoming to children than any other country I've lived in or visited (including Spain and Italy, which tie for second place). Don't be surprised if your smaller children are patted on the head by strangers of both sexes or fawned over by children just a few years older. This is the Portuguese way, and the stranger who tells your little girl that she's pretty or offers candy to your son is unlikely to be a pervert.

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