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 Bergamo Travel Guide

Bergamo

Just 50km northeast of Milan, yet much closer to the mountains in look and feel, BERGAMO is a city with a split identity, made up of two distinct parts – Bergamo Bassa, the lower, more modern centre, and Bergamo Alta, clinging to the hill 1200 feet above the Lombardian plain. Bergamo Bassa is an odd mixture of pompous Neoclassical town planning and medieval cobbled streets; but Bergamo Alta is one of northern Italy's loveliest city centres, a favourite retreat for the work-weary Milanese, who flock here at weekends seeking solace in its fresh mountain air, wanderable lanes and the lively, but easy-going pace of its life.

Bergamo owes much of its magic to the Venetians, who ruled the town for over 350 years, building houses and palaces with fancy Gothic windows and adorning many a facade and open space with the Venetian lion – symbol of the republic. The most striking feature, however, is the ring of gated walls. Now worn, mellow and overgrown with creepers, these kept alien armies out until 1796, when French Revolutionary troops successfully stormed the city, throwing off centuries of Venetian rule.

Bergamo Travels & Tours

Carrara Academy Gallery (Galleria dell'Accademia Carrara)
Filled with a wide-ranging collection of the works of homegrown artists, as well as Venetian and Tuscan masters, the academy draws art lovers from all over the world. The most important works are on the top floor -- head here first if your time is limited. The Botticelli portrait of Giuliano de' Medici is well known, and one room contains three versions of Giovanni Bellini's favorite subject, the Madonna and Child. It's interesting to compare his work with that of his brother-in-law, Andrea Mantegna, whose Madonna and Child is also displayed, as is Vittore Carpaccio's Nativity of Maria, seemingly inspired by Flemish painters.

Colleoni Chapel (Cappella Colleoni)

This Renaissance chapel honors the inflated ego of the Venetian military hero Bartolomeo Colleoni, with an inlaid marble facade reminiscent of Florence. It was designed by Giovanni Antonio Amadeo, who's chiefly known for his creation of the Certosa in Pavia. For the condottiere, Amadeo built an elaborate tomb, surmounted by a gilded equestrian statue. (Colleoni, who was once the ruler of the town and under whose watch the town fell to the Republic of Venice, which he then served, was also the subject of one of the world's most famous equestrian statues, now standing on a square in Venice.) The tomb sculpted for his daughter, Medea, is much less elaborate. Giovanni Battista Tiepolo painted most of the frescoes on the ceiling.

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