You
might expect BASEL (Bâle in French, and often anglicized
to Bâle), situated on the Rhine exactly where Switzerland,
Germany and France touch noses, to be the focal point of the
continent, humming with pan-European energy. It’s true
that Basel’s voters are the most fervently pro-European
of all Switzerland’s German speakers but, somehow, the
close proximity of foreign languages and cultures has introverted
the city rather than energized it: Basel’s a curiously
measured place, where equilibrium is everything. You won’t
find anyone shouting about the new Europe here; in fact, you’re
unlikely to find anyone shouting about anything at all. Even
the city’s massive carnival is a rigorously organized
set piece.
With both a gigantic river port – Switzerland’s
only outlet to the sea – and the research headquarters
of several pharmaceutical multinationals (including Novartis,
one of the principal players in global development of GM crops
and foods), Basel nurtures its reputation as Switzerland’s
wealthiest and most discreet city. Its historic centre –
dominated by the awe-inspiring Münster – is definitely
worth seeing, and the city’s long-standing patronage
of the arts has resulted in a panoply of first-rate museums
and galleries – 35 in all, including the stunning Beyeler
collection, Basel’s sole unmissable attraction. And
yet, bequeathed a glittering medieval past endowed with some
of the greatest minds of European history (Erasmus, Holbein
and Nietzsche, to name just three) and centuries-long access
to the best of three neighbouring worlds, it’s almost
as if Baslers lost the plot when it came to defining their
city for today. Most people seem to back the standard Swiss
default option of gathering wealth in a discreet and orderly
fashion, saving money shopping in France and having a better
time partying in Germany. Which is all very well, but it tends
to leave their own city rather bereft in the process. |
Spalentor
The expansion of the city in the 19th century meant the
end of the medieval walls and its seven entrances. However,
the most beautiful of them, the Spalentor, remains. Erected
in the 14th century, this gate still possesses a very impressive
oak portcullis. Just inside lies a copy of the city's customs
decree of 1795, a great piece of history. The gate is adorned
with beautiful glass tiles and humorous 15th century figures.
The originals can be viewed in the Museum of History.
Fondation Beyeler
Ernst Beyeler is without a doubt one of the world's most
renowned gallery owners and collectors. Rarely do you find
the work of so many masters under one roof. Beyeler, with
the help of his wife Hildy, has accumulated over 180 modern
classics. Important works by Cezanne, Van Gogh, Picasso,
Warhol and Bacon highlight the collection. The museum shop
offers a wide range of high quality books, art cards and
special design objects.
Münster
Two slender towers characterise this red sandstone church;
climb at least one to appreciate the stunning view. Although
Münster Hill was already inhabited by the time of the
Celts, the present late-Roman/early-Gothic building was
mostly constructed in the latter part of the 12th century.
In 1356, five towers were destroyed in an earthquake. The
famed humanist Erasmus of Rotterdam is buried here. The
Roman gate is notable for its many old stone figures.
Martinskirche
High above the Rhine you'll find the Martinskirches, hidden
away in the maze of streets that compose the Old Town. Even
residents of the area around are confused when you ask for
directions to the church.
As
with many other churches, different parts of the Martinskirche
date from different peiods. Only the chancel and the bottom
of the tower survived the 1356 earthquake. In the following
decades the church was rebuilt. In 1928 paintings from 1370
were uncovered. The church, with its 3 naves, is famous
for its acoustics, and is often used for concerts. The bells
of the Martinskirche ring the Autumn Fair in and out every
year.
imPulsiv Freizeitcenter
You can play squash and badminton, use a sauna and solarium,
or get fit at most fitness clubs these days, but Impulsiv
offers something else. Firstly, they have an ice disco on
Saturdays during the winter, and secondly, they have a climbing
wall.
There
is over 700 square metres of climbing area, and if you really
want to work up a sweat, there's always the 80 square metres
of the overhanging wall. They run climbing courses wih qualified
instructors for both adults and children, and climbing gear
can be hired.
Kannenfeldpark
Basel is not really a city of parks, which is surprising
when you consider how green it is. Kannenfeldpark is a popular
play area for children. The statues at the entrance on Burgfelderstrasse
highlight its use between 1869 and 1871 as a graveyard,
and many of the trees also date from this period. Although
the traffic flies around the outside of the park, you can
enjoy a little fresh air here, and in the summer they have
open-air theatre.
Fischmarktbrunnen
The Fischmarktbrunnen, built towards the end of the 14th
Century, was quickly heralded as the most beautiful fountain
in Northern Europe. The fountain is dodecagonal, with a
gothic centrepiece, the original of which can now be found
in the Historical Museum.Above the four solid gargoyles
stand angels either with musical instruments or weapons.
The large figure represent Peter, Mary, and John. The other
smaller figures are other saints and prophets. |
